Everest base camp, day 3: Phakding to Namche Bazaar

posted in: Uncategorized | 6
October 2014
It was a difficult night at Phakding. For some reason I had
headache and that prevented me from having a good sleep. At 8400 feet, there
was very little chance of Altitude sickness. But still it did not give me a nice feeling.
I felt better in the morning. It was good as we had a tough
day ahead.  The climb from Phakding to
Namche Bazaar is considered as the most difficult part of the trek. We will be
experiencing it today. At 7:30AM we were all set for the walk.
The initial part of the trek was pleasant. While crossing a
stream I decided to take a photograph of myself. It would my first photo in
this trip. Well, for now it was just a shadow of me!!
A small but a beautiful waterfall made its appearance on the
The first snow clad mountain made its appearance as we
walked. It was Thamserku at the elevation of 21, 680 feet.
All along the way we crossed yaks and mules carrying loads.
Another waterfall made its appearance which was more serene
and beautiful. Shortly afterwards we reached a village called Benkar. A picturesque
village. Instead of Phakding one can also stay here. It is more beautiful and
reduces the pain of second day’s walk by 1.5 hours!!
Still we haven’t gained any altitude. We crossed Dudh Kosi River
several times over hanging bridges. After Benkar was Monjo village. Here was
the check post for TIMS card. As mentioned earlier we had not taken TIMS card
at Kathmandu. That was not an issue as the TIMS card was also issued here. All
we needed was two photographs and a passport copy. We paid INR 375 per head for
the TIMS card.
The so called climb of Namche Bazaar had not yet begun but
we had entered Sagarmatha National Park. We had to pay the NPR 1500 per head
for National Park Permits. This was one of the places where they accepted only
Nepali currency.
Sagarmatha National Park entry
We had walked for three hours but had not gained but
altitude. That did not mean that it was a plain walk. We were constantly
climbing up and then down without gaining any altitude!! We did not like it. After
National park entry, we were again extremely disappointed when we again had to
go down to the base of Dudh Kosi River.
Somewhere we saw a board that it was the last restaurant
before Namche Bazaar. But it was still 10:30AM and we were not hungry enough to
have lunch.
Finally, after nearly three hours of trekking we were at the
place where the steep climb to Namche Bazaar begins. It was an astonishing
sight to see two hanging bridges one above the other at a great height. We had
to cross using the top bridge.
The climb was very steep with series of switchbacks. We
trudged silently thinking about the “rest day” (Acclimatization day) in Namche
Bazaar. That gave us lot of energy. The walk was long and it drained all our energy.
I was now hungry and that made me even more tired. After about ¾ of the climb
was a rest point. We rested for a while and filled water bottles.
We had to show our permits at a check point. It was an
indication that Namche Bazaar was nearby. On the way we found a hotel that
claimed free Wi-Fi and charging. Both were premium in this trek and we barged
in!! Namche Bazaar was still few minutes away but we were hungry.

Finally at 2PM we reached Namche Bazaar. We took a room at
the entrance of the town. The total journey was 13 km with a gain of 2800 feet

6 Responses

  1. Sana

    Looks like it is a very strenuous trek, I have never heard you expressing such experience in any of your previous treks. No wonder it is Mt Everest.

    Beautiful pictures of the falls!!

  2. Aravind GJ


    Looks like I made it look tough in my post!! It is a steep climb indeed but it became tougher as we were hungry!!

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