Penukonda, a historic town in Andhra Pradesh, is located on the Bengaluru–Anantapur highway. With a rich history, Penukonda served as the capital of the Vijayanagar Empire from 1565 AD to 1592 AD, after the fall of Hampi.
My Previous Visit
A few years ago, on my way to Madakasira Fort, we passed through Penukonda. The hill towering over the town caught our attention, and we was eager to climb it. However, unable to find a proper path, we continued my journey to Madakasira, promising myself to return and explore the hill someday.
The New Road and Instagram Buzz
Recently, I stumbled upon Instagram reels showcasing a newly constructed road leading to the top of the hill. The serpentine road, dotted with hairpin bends, looked mesmerizing. I decided to wait for the rains to paint the dry terrain green before making my visit.
Reaching Penukonda
The drive to Penukonda was uneventful but pleasant. On the way, we stopped at the Madhavaraya Temple in Gorantla before reaching the town. Following directions toward the Lakshmi Narayanaswamy Temple, we noticed the road suddenly transformed—smooth and wide. The final 4-kilometer stretch to the top of the hill was a delightful drive, filled with exciting switchbacks and scenic views.
However, upon reaching the top, we found the area bustling with bikers. The noise of revving engines filled the air, as visitors took selfies, posed for photos, and engaged in bike stunts and short races. Amid this chaos, we parked my car and contemplated our next steps.
Exploring the Fort Ruins
The road ended abruptly, but several trails branched out from there. We chose one that led us to a gopuram, which appeared to be the entrance to the fort. Walking through shrub forests and rocky terrain, we reached an open area offering a stunning view of a lake surrounded by greenery. It was a refreshing sight.
Taking another trail, we climbed to the Kalimatha Temple, surrounded by serene grasslands. The peaceful atmosphere made it a perfect spot to pause and admire nature. Venturing further, hopping across rocks, we reached a vantage point with panoramic views of the surroundings. From there, I spotted the fort’s upper section on an adjacent hill. It looked like an adventure —one I wasn’t prepared for this time but promised myself to explore on my next visit.
At the end of the asphalted road, there were a few ruined temples and a well. Unfortunately, treasure hunters had vandalized the structures, leaving behind a sense of neglect.
The Mystery Behind the Road
I couldn’t help but wonder why such a well-constructed road existed in an otherwise neglected site. The government hadn’t provided basic amenities like toilets, marked trails, or seating areas. The ruins remained unrestored, and the historical significance of the site seemed overlooked.
Later, I learned that a religious organization plans to build a grand structure with a giant statue here. A portion of the fort is already fenced off for construction activities. While development is underway, I hope efforts are made to preserve the history and heritage of this amazing place.
Exploring the Town
Penukonda itself is a typical dusty town but holds historical treasures worth visiting.
- Gagan Mahal Palace: This two-story structure was built as a residence for Vijayanagar rulers. Though it was closed when I arrived, a semi-inebriated caretaker eventually opened it, not forgetting to ask for tips afterward. Despite the lack of upkeep, it’s a beautiful monument worth seeing.
- Saluva Timmarusu Jail: This historic site is where Timmarusu, the prime minister of Krishnadevaraya, was imprisoned on charges of treason. Ironically, Timmarusu was instrumental in Krishnadevaraya’s coronation. His tomb is also located in Penukonda, along the road leading to the hilltop.
- Water Tank and Gopuram: Close to the Gagan Mahal, you’ll find a water tank and an impressive gopuram. Although the temple adjacent to the gopuram is now reduced to its foundation, the remnants hint at its former grandeur.
- Basavanna Stepwell: This creatively designed stepwell is accessed through the body of a carved Nandi. It’s an architectural gem that showcases the ingenuity of the time.
- Kumbakarna Park: Although unrelated to history, Kumbakarna Park on the outskirts of the town is worth mentioning. The park features a massive statue of Kumbakarna in a reclining position. It was crowded during our visit, so we took a quick look from outside and moved on. It’s likely more appealing to children and families.
Information and Tips
- Allocate 3–4 hours to cover all the historical sites in Penukonda.
- There’s one decent Andhra-style restaurant at the town’s entrance.
- Due to the nearby KIA factory, Penukonda has seen a surge of Korean influence, with Korean restaurants and stores popping up in the area.
Summary
Penukonda is a fascinating destination for history enthusiasts and driving aficionados. The drive to the hilltop is thrilling, and the town offers a blend of historic sites and scenic views. However, the lack of proper maintenance and rampant littering tarnish its charm. If every visitor took the simple step of carrying back whatever they brought, Penukonda could truly shine as a nice place to explore.
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