The districts of Hosur and Krishnagiri are full of stunning fort hills, and recently, they’ve become my favorite hiking spots. Here’s why: they are close to Bengaluru and perfect for a day trip. Unlike some parts of Karnataka, the Forest Department here is quite easygoing, and these routes are relatively unknown—so I’ve barely come across other hikers. Plus, the local people are incredibly friendly, making the experience even better.
After seeing the amazing posts by Dhiraj, who has explored many places in this area, I was inspired to make a long list of trekking spots here. Last week, I chose to visit Ankushagiri. It seemed interesting and easy enough for a relaxed hike. Chaya and I decided to give it a go!
Starting the Journey: Ankushagiri Temple
Our adventure began at the Sri Thimmarayaswamy Temple, located at the base of Ankushagiri hill. The journey wasn’t without its frustrations—traffic on the road was heavy, worsened by ongoing flyover construction on the Hosur – Krishnagiri highway. Paying the toll only to be stuck in traffic and then dealing with rumble strips made things worse.
But, all those annoyances disappeared after we enjoyed a delicious meal at a restaurant along the highway. When we reached the peaceful temple, it was surprisingly empty. After asking locals for directions, we began our hike.
Exploring the Ruins
Not long into our climb, we reached two ruined temples. Judging by the architecture, they seemed to date back to the Vijayanagar era. One temple still had some remains of its tower, while the other didn’t. The entrance door showed signs of intricate carvings, but inside, the temples were empty.
We pressed on, hiking through the forest along a clear path. One quirky detail we noticed was the large number of millipedes! The environment here must be perfect for them.
A Gradual Ascent
The forest hike was enjoyable, with the altitude rising gradually, allowing us to take it easy. Though some parts of the hill were steep, the trail wound its way up in a gentle, circular route.
Eventually, we came upon the first layer of fort walls, though there wasn’t much left of them. As we climbed higher, the views started to open up, offering stunning sights all around.
Following the Trail
The route got a bit confusing here, but we used the electric poles as a guide and stayed on track. After crossing the second layer of fortification, the true scale of the fort revealed itself. We first came across the remains of a small temple, and imagining its grandeur in its prime was amazing.
This wide, open space seemed to have once been home to palaces and other buildings, though now only their foundations and scattered ruins remain.
Intrigue at the Top
At the very top of the fort, we found a number of pillars scattered across the area, adding to the mystery of the place. The whole scene was intriguing—an ancient fort with so much untold history.
A Glimpse Into the Past
You won’t find much information about this place online. However, I did some digging and found a little history in the “Madras District Gazetteer Salem Vol.i Part 2.” Here’s an excerpt from the book, which I’ve tried to make more readable:
Ankusagiri (altitude 3,038′) so called from its fancied resemblance to an elephant goad, lies about 6 miles east of SMagiri, and was the ancient capital of the Masti (Borikai) Poligars. The construction of Fort and Palace is said to have been begun by one Ankusa Rayalu, king of Kundani, who lost his kingdom to the Masti Poligar Chokka Gauda. Chokka Gauda completed the building, and, on thoe capture of Masti by Venkoji, Pedda Chokka Gauda transferred the capital to Ankusagiri. Ankusagiri itself was lost to the Marathas a few years later, but regained with the help of a force from Magadi. In 1766-7 Ankusagiri was taken after a four months’ siege by Haidar Ali, and the Poligar fled to the Marathas at Chittoor. His capital was restored to him on the conclusion of peace between Haidar and the Peshwa. On the advent of Colonel Smith, the Poligar threw in his lot with the English, and on Colonel Smith’s withdrawal, Haidar again attacked and took the capital, which remained in his and Tipu’s hands (except for a short interval during the Third Mysore War) till the arrival of Lord Harris in 1799.
On the top is a small temple, and the remains of another “Palaco” with a neatly curbed cistern, and traces of brickwork of substantial character, the bricks being well burnt and exceptionally large, and the mortar excellent. When Ankusagiri was abandoned by the Poligar, its inhabitants migrated to Bastala-palli, otherwise known as Ankushagiri Kottur or “new town”.
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