Attari is a border village in India lying on the Amritsar-Lahore highway. Flanking on the Pakistan side is the Wagah village. It would have been another border check post, but the daily practice of lowering the flag by both militaries has brought fame to this place!! Almost every tourist visiting Amritsar would travel to the Attari border.
Drive towards the border
We landed in Amritsar at noon. Our destination was to travel to the hill stations of Dalhousie and Dharamshala, but we spared half day to visit a few places in Amritsar. After checking into the hotel and having lunch, we started our journey toward the border. The ceremony happens at five in the evening, but the person in the hotel suggested showing up early.
We crossed the chaotic streets of Amritsar and entered the smooth highway. It was the stretch of the grand trunk road. Built originally by Chandra Gupta Maurya, Sher Shah Suri renovated it during the 16th century. Now, it was a four-lane highway!! As we moved closer to the border, we could see two flags flying high on the flag poles. Our driver mentioned that they are Indian and Pakistani flags.
We crossed the check post after Attari and entered the parking area. Our driver asked us to carry a purse, mobile, camera and water bottle. The security check was standard and quick. My DSLR attracted some attention, and the security guard asked to take a picture and show that it was indeed a camera. I tried to take his photo, and he jokingly asked me not to do that!!
At the border
The ceremony location looked like a huge stadium. It was a U shaped amphitheatre with a road going through it. We had reached there by 3:30 PM, but the crowds had already arrived. The strategic locations like the front seats and the “shady” seats on the top were the first ones to be occupied. It was a hot afternoon, and we picked up a shady spot.
People kept pouring in. Loudspeakers played patriotic songs keeping the people engaged. There were regular announcements from BSF personnel.
A gate on the road separated India from Pakistan. The stadium on the Pakistani side was smaller, and the crowd was also thin. There was a sharp contrast between the people of the two countries. The Indian side was colourful and filled with all strata of people. But the Pakistani side was dull with most people wearing traditional dress, and the women were hardly present!!
Ceremony
Things started moving at around 4 PM. BSF personnel marched on the road with the Indian flag. BSF personnel asked Women to volunteer to come down to the road and carry flags. They also danced to the tunes of patriotic songs. I must say that the atmosphere was electric, and the whole event looked like a gala function. People were cheering, taking photos and responding to the slogans like Mande Mataram.
Things got a bit serious at 5 PM. Both sides opened the gate, and the marching ceremony began. It was amazing to see the energy displayed by the BSF personnel. The flag-lowering event itself was a simple affair, but the associated manoeuvres were the attractive part. Be it shouting in high pitched voice, raising legs to the insane levels, showing the moustaches etc. It was also great to see women soldiers from BSF being part of the ceremony.
Overall, it was a great experience. For me, this was an event that brought the spirit of India!!
Difference with the border ceremony in Agartala
I had witnessed a similar ceremony at the India-Bangladesh border at Agartala. It was a small scale event, and the atmosphere was friendly. We could interact with the Bangladesh soldiers and its citizens. None of that is possible in Attari!!
Information and tips
- The ceremony starts at 5 PM in summer and 4 PM in winter. People start coming in from 2 PM onwards.
- There is no entry fee.
- The place is very crowded with thousands of people. Weekends are more crowded. Also, it is very noisy (obviously).
- Toilet facilities are available. People sell water bottles and some snacks.
- There is a large parking area.
- Shared rides are available in Amritsar. You can see people selling tickets for shared rides in the Golden temple area.
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