Airavatesvara temple at Kumbakonam

It was 12:30 in the afternoon when we reached the Airavatesvara Temple at Kumbakonam. Temple in Tamil Nadu close between 12 noon to 4 PM, and this temple was no exception. I thought that only Garbhagudi would be closed, but even the compound was locked. It is generally hot in the afternoon, and it makes sense to give some break. But it is a waste of time for people who are travelling.

It was also time for lunch. Since we could not find any good restaurants nearby, we went to a restaurant in the town. Kumbakonam is a temple town visited by religious people. After lunch, we visited sacred ponds like the Maha Maham tank and Potramarai kulam. The Raja Gopuram of Adi Kumbeshwar looked big and beautiful from the tank.

We came back to Airavatesvara temple. We still had an hour to spare before the temple opened. The garden in the temple complex was inviting, and we rested under the shade of a tree. Occasionally, we were disturbed by the vendors who wanted to sell items ranging from toys to silk saree. They were doing their job.

In the temple

The temple opened on time, and we went inside. As we went inside, we were astonished by the beauty of the temple. Built during the 12th century CE by Raja Raja Chola II, this temple is known as the great living Chola temple with the Bhrideshwara temple at Thanjavur and Gangaikondacholisvaram Temple at Cholapuram.

Why the name Airavatesvara temple? Airavatha is Indra’s white elephant. As per mythology, the elephant was restored with its white and clean skin after it took a dip in the water tank of this temple. Hence the Shiva temple got its name as Airavatesvara temple.

The temple was much larger when it was constructed, with seven streets and seven courts. Today, only one court with the main temple is standing. The reasons for the destruction is not clear, but it would have been plundered during the raids of the Delhi sultanate, which created havoc in South India during the 14th century.

The temple is shaped in the form of a chariot with stone horses and wheels in the hall. The large inner courtyard is about 107 meters long and 70 meters wide. The hall is supported by many pillars, each carved with intricate carvings. The design resembles a dancing hall which is seen in many medieval temples. The vimana (structure over the garbhagriha) raises over the inner sanctum.

The base of the main temple is decorated with reliefs narrating the stories of sixty-three shiva bhakti saints. The outer walls of the temple have some exquisite carvings of various Hindu deities.

The evening light allowed us to photograph the outer part of the temple. We spent about an hour at the temple appreciating its architecture.

Information and tips

• The temple is located at Darasuram, on the outskirts of Kumbakonam.
• Kumbakonam has many restaurants and hotels. The heart of the town is congested, and parking can be a challenge.
• The temple has a decent parking place. Toilets facility is also available.
• Kumbakonam is about 40 km from Thanjavur, and it would take an hour to drive.
• The temple is open from 8 AM to 8 PM with a break from 12 PM to 4 PM.