Hampi – history, travel tips and information

The beginning of the last millennia brought turbulence for India. It started with the invasion and looting by Mahmud of Ghazni from AD 1001. Historian Robert Sewell mentions, War followed the war, and from that period Northern India knew no rest. By the end of the 13th century, North India was under the control of the invaders, with no resistance from the local rulers. South India until then was spared, but it changed in 1293 AD when Ala-ud-din Khilji captured Devagiri. His general Malik Kafur led many campaigns into South India. He captured Warangal in 1309, defeated Hoysalas and smashed it’s capital Dwarasamudra (Halebid) in 1310. He reached Malabar and Madurai, plundering everything on the way.

By 1330 AD, chaos had reigned South India. The frequent attacks had shaken the great kingdoms (some were so old to even trace its origin!!) of South India. It looked like the south would also suffer the fate of Northern India. But suddenly, there was a check to the invasion. From the destruction rose an Empire that blocked all attacks from the North for the next 250 years. The Vijayanagar Empire reached the heights that rivalled the western empires. The European visitors in the 15th and 16th centuries wrote that no western city could match the grandeur and richness of the capital of Vijayanagar Empire, Hampi.

 

All good things must end one day. Like other Empires, Vijayanagar also suffered from internal conflicts for power. It withstood all such challenges, but the disastrous war of Talikota in 1565 AD resulted in the sudden collapse of the Empire. The victorious forces of the Deccan sultanates spent six months in Hampi looting and vandalizing the city. The city never came back to its glory.

Today, the ruins of Hampi and its surroundings give a glimpse of the grand and prosperous city. As per UNESCO, there are about 1,600 monuments that cover 41.5 square kilometres!!

Previous visit

My earlier visit to Hampi was in 2004. I had joined the organized trip by KSTDC. They had done a decent job of covering major monuments in a single packed day. I went there as a tourist, clicked a few snaps and happily proceeded to the next location in the itinerary. My understanding of the Vijayanagar Empire was limited to some references made in school books.

My perceptions changed when I read the book “A Forgotten Empire Vijayanagar” by Robert Swell (Few texts in the first two paragraphs are taken from this book). I followed it by reading another exceptionally good book, “The never to be forgotten Empire” by B. Suryanarain Rao. Aa Na Krishnaraya’s books on the Vijayanagar empire gave a different perspective of the Empire.

I felt that I should visit Hampi again and spend more time than just making a dash visit. It was also the right time for Tanu to understand the history by seeing the remains in reality. So, we planned a trip to Hampi and spent about three days this October.

I don’t think it makes sense to explain the monuments as many sources give a detailed description of each monument. I will limit my writing to provide some practical tips to plan the trip to Hampi based on my experience.

Where is Hampi?

Hampi is about 12 km from the nearest town, Hosapete, and 340 km from Bengaluru. You can easily cover the distance from Bengaluru to Hampi in less than six hours, thanks to the 6/4 lane road. Hosapete is also connected by train.

Where to stay?

Hampi is a small village, and the stay options are limited to guest houses that cater to budget travellers. Hosapete is the nearest town and has many hotels across the budget range. But my suggestion is to stay in Hosapete if you visit Hampi as a day trip. My personal preference is Kamalapur, 5 km from Hampi. It is easy to access Hampi ruins from Kamalapur and works very well if you are planning to view the sunrise.

We stayed at KSTDC Mayura Kamalapur, and we had a good experience. Of course, there are few resorts and high-end hotels nearby. You can select based on your taste and budget.

Another option is to stay on the other side of the Tungabhadra river. Places like “Hippie Island” is sought by foreigners, solo travellers and friends travelling in a group.

How much time to spend in Hampi?

It depends on your interest. Like I mentioned before, some organized tours cover it in a day. But I suggest at least two days to give some justice to this historical place. Add another day to cover Anegundi and Tunga Bhadra dam. Do not miss the sunrise and sunset in Hampi. Viewing the first rays of the sun falling on the ruins is something to experience.

How to travel?

Hampi ruins are spread across a vast area. It takes a lot of energy, stamina and time to cover on foot. It is best if you have your vehicle. Else, you can hire an auto for an entire day from Kamalapur.

Organized parking is available at Virupaksha Temple and Vijaya Vittala temple. But I think it could fill out during long weekends and the holiday season. At other places, you park in the area next to the ruins. But there are open spaces, and parking would not be a problem.

Vehicles are not allowed to Vijaya Vittala temple. You need to walk for a km from the parking place or take battery-operated vehicles operated exclusively by women drivers.

You can use coracles to cross to the other side of the Tungabhadra river if you do not have your vehicle. Note that the coracle service is not available at night, and it may be stopped when water levels are high.

Hire a guide or not?

If you are visiting for the first time, I suggest hiring a guide. But go only for the ASI guides, not someone who bugs you on the street. It is best to connect with the hotel and specify your needs. ASI has done a decent job of raising boards with information at many places.

When is the best time to visit?

Hampi is a dry area surrounded by boulder-filled hills. It will be hot during the summer months. The monsoon and winter season is the best time to travel. Hampi monuments are open from sunrise to sunset. Early morning and evening is the best time to see the monuments when the light is not harsh.

Where to eat?

There are small eateries in Hampi village. An outstanding restaurant is Mango tree, which has a pleasant ambience and multiple cuisine options. Restaurants in Kamalapur looked average. Better to stick to the restaurant in your hotel if you are staying in Kamalapur. Hosapete has many options for food.

Where are the sunrise and sunset points?

Hampi is known for its sunrise and sunset views. There are four major viewing areas in Hampi.

Matanga hill

Matanga hill is the most famous spot for sunrise in Hampi. It is near Viruoaksha Temple. Park the vehicle at the Virupaksha temple area, and walk for 5 minutes to reach the base of the hill. From there, it takes about 20-30 minutes to climb up the hill. At some places, you have to walk over the boulders. The view of the Virupaksha temple and Tunga Bhadra river is stunning.

Hemakuta hill

Hemakuta hill next to Virupaksha temple has many monuments and is a great place for sunset. It is a short climb which most people can manage. The view of Virupaksha Temple and the double-storey mantapa are the key highlights of this place.

Anjanadri hill

Known as the birthplace of Lord Hanuman, Anjanadri hill is located on the other side of the Tungabhadra river near Anegundi. It is known for both sunrise and sunset views. You need to climb 575 neatly built steps to reach the temple on top of the hill. The view is worth the climb. There is a large parking area at the base of the hill.

Malayavantha hill

Malayavanth hill is a sunrise and sunset point neat Kamalapur. Vehicles can go to the top where the Raghunath temple is located. It is a narrow and curvy road, and parking is a problem on crowded days. I visited this place during sunset and sunrise. There was a bit of crowd during the evening, and I had to use all my driving skills to park my car!! But when I visited for sunrise view, the place was empty!!

Entry tickets

Entry to most ruins is free except for the following monuments/locations.

• Archaeological museum at Kamalapur
• Vijaya Vittala temple
• Elephant stable, Zanana and Kamala Mahal (All located in the same complex)

Entry ticket is Rs 30 for Indians and Rs 500 for foreigners and is valid for the day and covers all monuments. There is no camera ticket. The only exception is inside Virupaksha Temple, where Rs 50/- is charged for the camera. Tripods are not allowed in Hampi.I went with DSLR and nobody bothered.

Hampi at night

The authorities are working on a light show at night to conduct “Hampi at night” tours. It was not operational during my visit, but preparations were in full swing.

Places nearby

• Tungabahdra dam near Hosapete. The evening is the best time to visit.
• Daroji bear sanctuary. A unique wildlife sanctuary for sloth bears.
• Sandur, with cool climate with western ghat topography!!