A great experience at Maghebailu falls

There were many unknowns and hurdles to visit this waterfall. We were in the peak monsoon season, with rains battering the malenaadu area for the past few weeks. It required some walking in the leech-infested forest, and water levels in the streams could be high to cross. We were not sure about local support, and there was news that the forest department would harass the trekkers.

These thoughts came into my mind as our car entered the Jeep track. It would have been a difficult task for a normal four-wheeler in the rainy season, but Sankara’s vehicle covered the rough stretch smoothly. Slush, mud, steepness and the slippery path did not matter to that beast. We were happy to be on that vehicle.

I made the mistake of asking a person whether we were driving on the right path. The person said that the visit to the waterfall was not allowed. He continued his speech by telling us that the forest guards ahead will not allow us further. I looked at his face deeply, and he did not look trustworthy. We decided to ignore him and proceed further. To satisfy his ego, we told him that we would reverse our car at a possible spot (it was a narrow road) and return.

At the village

We reached a bridge across a stream. A gate and a house indicated the end of the motorable road. We parked our vehicle and walked towards the house. The dogs in the area noticed the arrival of strangers and barked, triggering the house owner to come out. When we told our intentions, he asked us to continue further to reach the last house, where we would get directions to the waterfall. It was the first good news that we heard that day!!

We reached Maghebailu house shortly. The dogs announced our arrival, prompting the elderly person in the house to come out. His name was Chandrashekar Rao, and he promptly said that there were two issues in visiting the falls. One was the omnipresent leeches in the forest, and another was lesser seen but more powerful forest department people. He said it was our call to take the decision.

Hurdles – Leeches and Forest Department

I liked his way of putting facts on the table and leaving us to take the call. We were prepared for leeches but not ready to face the forest department people. Karnataka Forest Department is unfortunately not known for professional people. They are more interested in milking money from SLR cameras of visitors rather than providing facilities. They harass the trekkers for walking in the forest while they become silent when influential people cut trees to make roads in the name of “development activities”.  Connected people reserve their guesthouses and use them for immoral activities. But, I must also say that there are many good people in the department, and there are positive experiences (here). It is not right to blame them for the foolish acts committed by political masters. But, unprofessional people and tourist unfriendly policies acts (Ex: Camera fees) brings bad name to the department.

Chandrashekar Rao gave us the directions to the falls in a simple but effective way. He had created a small map, which was basic but worked beautifully. He also showed us the photo of the waterfall and explained to us how to climb it!! “The path is narrow in the forest. Don’t get scared. You will not miss the route. Water pipes to the base of the falls should help you to find the way.”, were his encouraging words.

Walk to the waterfall

Energised by his words, we dashed off towards the waterfall. Thanks to leeches, we had no luxury of leisurely walking. Instead, we had to run continuously to escape from their bites. While the path was clear, but recent rains had resulted in the undergrowth, which we had to navigate through.

In 15-20 minutes, we reached the stream, and the waterfall made its grand appearance. It was beautiful, and we were stunned to see it. The photos I had seen on the internet showed little water, but the view was completely different. The rains that lashed the area for the last few days had resulted in a copious amount of water in the stream.

At Maghebailu waterfall

We quickly cleaned our legs in the stream to remove the leeches. To move further on the stream, we crossed few boulders and found a place to stand and view the falls. Reaching the upper part of the falls looked difficult as we had to cross the stream. I tried to cross but realized that the force of the water was too much to manage. The chances of washing away in water were low, but I could get completely wet.

We spent some time enjoying the waterfall from that place. It was too beautiful. Unlike other streams that we had seen on that trip, the water at Maghebailu was clear.

Hospitality at Maghebailu house

After returning to Chandrashekar Rao’s house, we cleaned our legs in the water coming from a tap. Leeches had had a great day. Despite all precautions, I found 12 leech bites in my leg. It was not a lifetime record but a large number in recent years. The side effect of leech bites is that they itch even after several weeks. But the liberal application of coconut oil or turmeric heals the wound in a week or two, preparing the body for more leech bites!!

We were invited to the house and offered coffee. The hospitality shown to strangers like us was simply amazing. I have witnessed similar treatment at many places in Malenaadu and Coastal Karnataka. It was another example. We talked about various topics as we sipped the hot coffee. He looked like a person who has a lot of experience in life. He said that he also arranges food and stay for the people who come to falls. Living in a remote corner next to the forest, he was happy to see outsiders coming to his house. A great person, I must say.

After bidding goodbye to Chandrashekar Rao, we started walking back. The day had started with a bit of apprehension but ended by very well. The icing on the cake was to meet a person like Chandrashekar Rao!!

Rushya Shrungeshwara temple at Kigga

We visited the nearby Rushya Shrungeshwara temple at Kigga. While I am not a religious person, I feel good visiting few ancient temples, and the temple at Kigga is one of them. It is an ancient temple nestled in the backdrop of hills. I had visited it eight years ago, and I was happy to see the temple and the town calm and pristine.

Final words