We had been driving for more than 2 hours. Having started from Dharwad, we had passed through the National and state highways before hitting the district and village roads. The road quality had deteriorated in this last stretch. Since I followed google maps, I was not sure whether there were better roads. Each village that we crossed was filthy and were making fun of the “Swachh Bharath” mission. Galaganatha village was no different from others in the area. We found ourselves relieved when the road ended in front of Galageshwara temple. Surrounded by a garden, the magnificent temple looked like an oasis in the desert.
Where is Galageshwara temple?
Galaganatha is a small village in the Haveri district. It is known for the east-facing Galageshwara temple built in the 11th century during the Kalyani Chalukya period.
About Kalyani Chalukyas
Kalyani Chalukyas, also known as Western Chalukyas, was the dynasty that ruled over the western Deccan between the 10th and 12th centuries. It reached the peak during the reign of Vikramaditya IV. It was a momentous period in Karnataka as the rulers patronised the fine arts and temples. This period saw many temples constructed. Their architectural style represents the transition between the early Badami Chalukyas and later Hoysala.
At Galaganatha Temple
We entered the compound, and we were astounded to see the temple tower rising in the shape of a pyramid. It was the unique aspect of the temple. Built on the banks of the Tungabhadra river, the temple looked magnificent with exquisite carvings.
As we came to the front of the temple, we were mesmerised by the scenery before us. The mighty Tungabhadra river was flowing peacefully. We were standing on high ground, and it provided a panoramic view of the river. The only annoyance was the sound from pump sets pumping the water from the river to the fields. But it was the livelihood for the farmers in the village.
Navaranga and Garbhagruha
We saw that the Navaranga (Mantapa) had three sides to enter. The four large pillars at the centre of the Navaranga were simple in design but looked beautiful. A Nandi statue was seen, which is typical of any Shiva temple. The four large Devakosthas housed the images of 5 feet tall Adishakti, Ganapathi, Suryanarayana and Dasavathara Vishnu. The inscriptions about Kalyani Chalukyas were placed in the Navaranga.
At the centre of the Garbhagruha was the elevated platform with the Shiva linga on top of it. As expected, we could not enter into the Garbhagruha.
Adhisthana
The elevated Adhisthana (platform) resembles a pyramid. It has a broad base and tapers above on which the wall portion is built. There are many sculptural carvings on Adhisthana.
The temple and its surroundings are well maintained, but neighbours used the ground to dry Happala (papad).
We spent a long time at the temple relaxing. There were hardly any visitors during that time.
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