8 Aug 2012

6. A journey into Tibet – Nyalam Mu to Zhongba

by | posted in: Asia, China, Tibet | 12
July 2012
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We will be travelling from Nyalam Mu to Zhongba via Saga, a major town in the area. The total distance would be about 340 km.

 

 

After breakfast, we started from Nyalam Mu. The weather was cloudy, but there were signs of clearing up. The road after Nyalam Mu passes through the mountains with a river flowing to our right side. The land was mostly barren, with few green patches near the water beds.

 

 

After about an hour, the climb to Lung La started. With an altitude above 15,000 ft, this would be the highest pass in our journey that we cross on the bus. Thanks to the good road, the climb to Lung La was never felt. From the top of Lung La, vast plains of Tibet can be seen. The good part was that the weather started to turn bright.

 

 

After Lung La, the road passed through plains.

 

 

I was seeing a massif of snow-covered mountains on the left side. It was the range of Shishapangma. Shishapangama, at the height of 8,013 m (26,289 ft), is the fourteenth highest mountain in the world. It is the only peak above 8000 meter that is fully in China. It was the last eight thousand meter peak to be climbed, due to the restrictions for foreigners to visit Tibet.

 

 

A huge glacier at the base of the mountain.

 

 

We passed through a check post where the guide had to show some documents to Police. No passport verification for done here.

 

 

On the far right, a blue lake was seen. It was Paiku Tso, also called Hanuman Sarovar by Indians. I do not know why it was called Hanuman Sarovar, but I assume it has something to do with Hanuman taking bath in this lake. The lake is about 27 km long and 6 km wide and is brackish.

 

 

There is a stretch of road where asphalting is not completed. Though this part of the road passes through mountain area, it is still drivable on buses.

 

 

The drive on mud road would have lasted for about 1.5 – 2 hours. We were seeing a river flowing. It was the Bramhaputra River (Also called the Yarlung Tsangpo in Tibet). The ferociousness and vastness of the river were not seen here as it was still in its infancy. Here we cross the river to reach the town of Saga.

 

 

A few years ago, there was no bridge across the river. The vehicles and passengers had to be ferried across, the process taking a very long time. Now the bridge has made life easier.

 

 

At 1:30 PM, we were in the town of Saga. Until last year, Saga was the second halting point on the way to Manasa Sarovar. Saga is a big military town with a range of good hotels with private restrooms. But due to good roads, people proceed further for halting, thus reducing the importance and hype of Saga. Many people stay here during the return journey.

 

 

We had our lunch at Saga. The lunch served was prepared and packed in the morning. It was simple but tasty. One cannot be finicky about food at these remote places. It is necessary to have regular food to keep ourselves fit at a high altitude. And drink lots of water even if the weather is cold as high altitude cause dehydration.

 

 

It started raining the moment we finished our lunch, making us run for cover. It lasted for few minutes, and the sky was clear again. The guides and drivers who had gone out for lunch (They do not take Indian food!!) were not seen. For some reason, Sherpas asked us to walk for a km where the bus would pick us up. By then, clouds had vanished exposing us to the scorching sun. For few people, it was too much to handle. No other explanation can be given for the difference of 30 minutes between the first and the last person who reached the bus.

 

Prayer flags on top of the pass

 

It was the barren landscape of Tibet again. We crossed a pass that was 4920 meters above sea level. Plain lands started again.

 

New Zhongba town

 

At 6 PM, we reached New Zhongba town. The stay was at Namla Monastery hotel. The rooms were good (In fact I got a King size bed!!). The rooms had television, but no power as the generator was not working. The sad part was that the hotel had common Tibetan toilets. Tibetan toilets are unbearable and beyond any imagination!! Seeing my worried face one of the Sherpa told: “This is the better one Sir. From tomorrow, it will be even worse… this is a new one. So it stinks less!!”. Not sure whether it was good or bad news.

 

 

I should here say about the role of Sherpas in this trip. They are the most critical members of the team who can make or break the trip. The activities done by them are:

  • Pick up duffel bags from all rooms and put them in the truck. And in the evening, give it back to the respective people.
  • Prepare food – Morning tea, hot water to wash face, Breakfast, lunch, evening tea, soup, dinner and hot water for drinking. And everything is served inside the room (sort of room service!)
  • Unload and load all items (Utensils, water drums, gas stoves, groceries, vegetables) from the truck.
  • Carry oxygen cylinders during the trek.
  • Help people during the trek.
  • Washing utensils.
  • Arranging ponies and porters for trek.

 

A mountain seen from Hotel

 

They are the ones who run the show. Most of them are simple people who always keep smiling. They just sleep for a couple of hours. Their service is unmatchable.

 

View from my hotel room

 

The truck carrying food items reached late due to breakdown. So the dinner was served at 11:30 in the night.
We would be seeing Manasa Sarovar the next day!!

12 Responses

  1. Srikanth Manjunath
    | Reply

    buddy snaps are jaw dropping..what a clear sky..and also the clouds are just like sponges..

    Breathtaking landscapes, rivers, barren lands, brown cover, snow clad mountains..awesome awesome..

    Above all narration tops the list..

    Way to go buddy..eager to read your next pipeline….Kudos to you!!!

  2. Santosh bs
    | Reply

    Completely barren lands… reminds me of parts of Ladakh!
    By any chance would you pass by the Pangong lake that is majorly in Tibet?

  3. Aravind GJ
    | Reply

    Srikanth,
    Thanks for your comments.

    Santosh,
    Ladakh is just the extension of Tibet!!

    Pangong Lake is still 350km North West of Manasa Sarovar. Not sure how difficult is to get permissions to visit Chinese side of the lake.

  7. Deepam
    | Reply

    Mind blowing pics ! Thank you for the narrations…..very informative and inspiring……waiting for the pics of Manas sarover and the Parikrama experience…..we are heading there later this month and looking forward to any and every tip that may come our way, thanks again and continue posting please !

  8. Aravind GJ
    | Reply

    Niranjan,
    Thanks.

    Chetana,
    Manasa Sarovar post got delayed… but on the way!!

    Nisha,
    Thanks.

    Deepam,
    Thanks for commenting. Wish you the best.

  10. Tibet Treks
    | Reply

    Tibet is without doubt one of the most remarkable places to visit in Asia. It offers fabulous monastery sights, breathtaking high-altitude treks, stunning views of the world’s highest mountains and one of the most likeable peoples you will ever meet.

    Tibet trekking

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